Oh-so Grand

by Kris Neri, at the Femmes Fatales

When I was in elementary school, I always hated writing that obligatory, first-day-of-school essay, "What I Did on My Summer Vacation." Teachers never seemed to appreciate the creativity I brought to the exercise when I described how I explored the rings of Saturn that July, rather than the mundane truth, that I sizzled to lobster-red on the one day I spent on the Jersey shore.

This time I'll happily share a glimpse into my recent anniversary getaway because we returned to a real place that I imagine to be nearly as magical as Saturn: the Grand Canyon. I love the Grand Canyon. The sight of it never fails to stir my soul, and makes me wish I were a better painter or a poet.

We snagged a room in the elegant old El Tovar Hotel. Since the rooms are in such great demand, we've never managed to find a vacancy waiting for us, and have had to stay somewhere outside the park until this time. But I've always wanted to wake up within the gates of Grand Canyon National Park and enjoy the solitude there before the public is admit. Well, before more of the public is admitted — with every lodge room booked, the place was hardly empty at sunup, though thankfully, lots of those lodgers must have been sleeping in. And sipping our morning coffee at the rim, even though a few others meandered past, was still the attainment of a long held dream.

Most geologists believe that the Canyon was carved during a period of extreme tectonic upheaval, when the Colorado River reserved its course. The consensus seems to be that the river alone could not have completely carved what we see today, but they do believe that the Canyon was mostly shaped by the movement of water, since there isn't enough sediment at the bottom for it to have been carved by wind. While there is a generally accepted consensus about its formation, there is no agreement among geologists about its age. Estimates of when it might have been carved range from 5 million years ago to more than 80 million.

My favorite building at the Canyon is Hopi House, which was opened in 1905, designed by a rare and successful female architect for her time, Mary Jane Coulter. Hopi House was her rendition of the pueblo housing early peoples built throughout the Southwest. Coulter was said to be such a perfectionist, she would stand behind the workmen as they erected the structure, choosing the placement of each stone herself. Hopi House was built to house Native American artists and provide them with a place to sell their crafts. Today, of course, it's operated by a giant corporation, licensed by the National Park Service, but it still offers mostly Native artworks among its pricy offerings.

For those of you who'd like a book connection…if you're interested in the origin of the Canyon, consider Carving Grand Canyon by Wayne Ranney. For visuals of the Canyon, Images: Jack Dykinga's Grand Canyon. Or if you prefer painted imagery, then consider Bruce Aiken's Grand Canyon: An Intimate Affair, by Susan Hallsten McGarry. And for the more ghoulish among you, Over the Edge: Death at Grand Canyon, by Michael P. Ghiglieri and Thomas M. Myers, which relates the circumstances of every known fatality that has occurred there. (Here's a hint: Many of them got too close to the edge, or didn't pay attention to warnings.)

Of course, not everyone finds the Canyon as moving as I do. Author, anthropologist and former Grand Canyon river guide, Scott Thybony (www.scott-thybony.com) tells a story about one such person. He'd been at the rim, looking out, when an angry-looking woman stomped her way up next to him, followed by her apparently dejected and beaten-down husband. She paused a moment, scowling at the sight before her. Then she whirled around and barked at her husband, "There! I looked at it. You dragged me across the country for this?"

For me, though, it's something more. But then, Saturn is probably great, too.

How about you? Have you been to the Grand Canyon? Have any stories?

Comments

[Kate Thornton]

What a great story - and it brought back lots of fine memories, too.

[Mark]

I've visited the Grand Canyon a couple of times. It is beautiful!

[jan Grape]

It would take too long to tell all my stories but here's briefy, "Jan at the Canyon." First visit to South Rim was 1969 & fell in love. In 1970 we went to North Rim and fell more in love It's higher elevation, thereby cooler. Less commercial having only 400 visitors in the 6 mo it's open ompared to South 5-6 million visiors year round. We stayed in cabin on rim first visit. We stayed outside the gates first visit to North Rim. A few years later a South Rim, '84ish Elmer & I rode mules down to Phantom Ranch and spent the nightrdethe mlesbck up. Oh my sore legs & back. We also took a helicopter ride that visit which hovered close to Anastassi cave dweller ruins. Next visit to North Rim we stayed in cabin right on rim,and stayed a week. We met people who could not understand wanting to stay there a whole week. Next visit to North Rim we stayed in their campground. And for us the best was from May 15 to Oct 15 in 2004 we worked and lived at North Rim. I will always love North Rim the most and Elmer did too. I scattered some of his ashes there in 2009. Our best friends love the canyon as much as we did and esp. North Rim. She scattered some of Bill's ashes long with Elmers so guys who were friends in College are together. I hope some of my ashes will be added one day, too.

[krisneri]

Jan, what an amazing story! What incredible GC adventures you and Elmer shared. You've given me the goal of experiencing the North Rim. Thanks so much for sharing this.

[krisneri]

Thanks, Kate & Mark!